Club 80-90 Forums

Do you have any pics you can post.
Can't help with a major job at the moment, but if it's just a few patches you need should be ok.

Just been through this with my Disco 1, took locksmith a couple of mins to get in. Pulled off rubber glass seal and then hooked onto lock mechanism. He screwed up though with the key cos he took a door lock away to cut a new key. Didn't use as many pins as the ignition, so only opened doors. I've bo...

Not long, but long enough. Mix quickly. Acts as a catalyst so depends on the amount, temperature etc. Give it a go first with a small amount of pva/few drops and see how long it takes to go off(rubbery). Couple of bits of scrap ply, blob of glue plus couple of drops of superglue and so on. Rub toget...

Nice idea.
Did you know that if you mix superglue with PVA it goes off almost immediately.
Bloody useful if you crash yer model plane, and I'm an expert at that.
5 mins all done and ready for the next crash, sorry I mean landing .

That doesn't sound good at all mm.
If you had to fit a later door, how long would you estimate or would you turn the job down.

I'm interested too cos at some point going to have to replace mine.
If I can find a later door in vgc what do I need to change over, if I use the old door as a donor.

Spent some time this afternoon removing the channel for the seal and assessing any repairs needed. This is the outer sill cleaned up and the gap between the two sill adjusted so that the 3mm plate will slot in. After finding more rust with the twist knot brush I opened up the sill all the way to the...

Well, been down to the local fabrication shop and 2 out of 3 ain't bad. He can't make the support section for the door seal so I'll make the piece that's rusted away instead of replacing the lot. He's going to cut me a section of 3mm sheet a metre long and 20mm wide to fill in the gap between the si...

Shouldn't be surprised anymore but I am. http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg588/Hooley1/DSC00076.jpg All the way from the rear to where the chisel is there isn't a single weld, chisel just slid along. The whole lot had been covered with filler. Looks like the inner sill has been replaced but the ...

Sorry, poor description from me. Atleast I hope so. The support bit I'm talking about is for the channel which holds the seal, not the plate the suspension is attached to. Will take it back a foot or so at first so I can have a good nosy inside the sill, if it's all carp then I'll take the lot off. ...

Thanks Mike, Just seems odd that the support section for the channel just stops and then the channel continues but deeper, that's what it looks like from the angle your pic is taken from. Guess I'm going to have to remove the support section and weld in a plate, looks solid but since I can't be cert...

I've 2 compressors, an old 25L and a SIP TN3 100D which is about the same spec as the sealey mentioned above but only a 100 litre tank. Cost me £300ish. Reckon you could use either for priming a small area you were going to flat back, but neither are any good for a full spray job. Bought the SIP cos...

Hi Folks, Spent a bit more time cleaning up, de-rusting and priming the exposed metal, but not made much progress on the door seal area. Could anyone advise me on the pic below:- http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg588/Hooley1/DSC00073.jpg It appears that the structure which holds the channel for ...

Nope their ain't no book, best advice is to search through MM's posts. Takes time but eventually you'll find the info you need. From experience MOT stuff is reasonable but bodywork takes a lot of time and effort. Without pics it's difficult to comment further, other than to say if you can't weld lea...

Well, didn't get much done at the weekend , spent ages searching the forum for pics of the area I needed to work on. Finally found a few pics which helped, MM's of course. Key to this situation is patience, patience, patience. This is what I started with. http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg588/Ho...