Club 80-90 Forums

https://i.postimg.cc/CKdFpx33/Screenshot-20240506-195749-Acrobat-for-Samsung.jpg I think you are over thinking this. You shouldn't need a tool to remove and refit the rotor arm. Only if you wanted to remove the hall unit inside. (The four vaned assembly). But that should not be necessary. Rotate th...

If it is something that was a typical factory option, then it would not affect the historical criteria.

If you threw a Subaru engine in, or a V6 lump, then that would affect it.

ajsimmo wrote: ↑Yesterday, 12:29 - your dizzy drive appears to be 90° out. It was the first thing I saw,

A keener eye than mine - but that would be more than enough to stop the van from starting.

From a moderately novice perspective, I do not see any advantage of converting from Carburettor to Fuel Injection. The carburettor system is more straight-forward to look after and maintain. Less to go wrong. And I may be wrong, but I am sure that the injected vans are not much more efficient mpg wi...

If you are getting sparks, and you are getting fuel, then it sounds possibly like a timing issue. I am sure you have read many posts about setting the rotor arm to the marker for plug lead one with cylinder 1 at top dead centre. The piston is at it's closest position to the spark plug hole. --------...

My pleasure... To simplify things. Coil - [1] - Green wire. - To TCI unit pin [1] [4] - HT Lead to Distributor. [15] - Black wire - To ignition switch via main body loom. [15] - Black wire - To Anti-run-on solenoid on the Carburettor. (Solex shown, but 2e3 is similar) https://i.postimg.cc/Wp7bNfSs/s...

Your coil connections are a little baffling. The [15] contact - ignition live to coil should be black. There are more black wires to TCI unit pin 4 And anti-run on solenoid on the carburettor. And manifold pre-heater thermoswitch. But then I see another black on the opposite set of spades on your ph...

No worry Steve,
It is human to have the odd blooper.

I hope whatever caused you frustration has been sorted.

If you weren't used to the 2.1 previously, then maybe that is why the 1.9 feels stifled.
It is a much lower bhp compared to the 2.1.

It will be like the 2.1 running on 3 cylinders but without the lumpiness of a mis-fire.

It does indeed sound like the ignition switch. It is a pain to remove the steering collumn covers and unscrew / unplug the switches to carry out the test swapsy - but worth your while if it finds the cause of your issue. It should be live when in the ignition on position... but dead in the cranking ...

I read somewhere that if I ran my 2.1 dj on an early exhaust system, then it would lose approx 10 bhp. 102bhp compared to 112bhp with the later exhaust system. In English money, approx 9% reduction overall. So that sounds like a restriction to me. I suppose it depends on how much gain in bhp your tw...

On an ignition switch, the main contacts are...

30 - Battery Live (red)

15 - Ignition Live (black)

X - relief relay live (black / yellow or black/ white).

So ignition and X relay are on separate circuits.
The X contact may be burnt... but not the 15 contact.
Perhaps...

Definitely sounds like the relief relay (18, 24, or 100) or ignition switch 'X' contact burnt. I am sure I read that - With the ignition on but engine not running, if you flashed the main beams, the consumers on the X relief relay circuits would often spring into life. Fan, rear window demister etc....

Its okay... It's actually Steve you are correcting. :) I gave the colours... Steve gave the locations. But you are correct to point out the correct oil pressure wire locations. Low Pressure Oil Switch hidden by push rods. (Blue / black) Higher Pressure Oil Switch (Buzzer of Doom / Dynamic Oil Pressu...

£70?... Wow, my garage only charge £45 per hour. My friend has replaced a lot more panels and done a proper respray for that sort of money. It is the first I have heard of welding in fresh metal, and then covering with fibre-glass. Unless I am mis-understanding his use of the phrase fibre-glass in t...