Club 80-90 Forums

I just cobbled one from various bits of exhaust tube and silicone bends, looks horrid, but has lasted many years, two jubilee clips per joint to be sure.
 

http://www.dieselbob.co.uk/ did mine about 15 years ago, it's still good, done about 60k miles on it since the rebuild

just the pipe from the coolant tank cap goes to the header tank behind the number plate.
looks to me like you don't need to change the flange on the cylinder head, just blank off the small pipe by sticking a suitably sized bolt in it and hold it in there with a hose clip.

got mine refurbed here
http://www.dieselbob.co.uk/injectionpumps.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
a few years back, was a sensible price at the time.... still going strong 20k miles later

Thanks all
She got it fixed, just water pump o ring, and it's come home from devon to sussex without using a drop of coolant.

Thanks, will pass that on.

Hi All

My ex is on hols in Devod and her 2.1DJ has sprung a water leak. Anyone know at T25 friendly garage in those parts? or an old school honest place?
Sounds like the external plumbing rather than barrels/head.

thanks
skell

mine has aaz inlet manifold and jx exhaust manifold.
the air filter housing sits in the rear corner behind the light cluster.
had to make up all the air ducts out of bits of exhaust pipe and hose.

What sort of engine? petrol or diesel? engine capacity? engine code?

Just pulled one of mine out for a top end rebuild, so reading your great thread as a bit of revision. Is there any value other than cosmetic to painting the heads and case? What grit wet and dry for sealing faces? I have everything up to 2000 knocking about. I read a Laurie Petit post a few days bac...

AAZ is a good route. I'm running AAZ and DU gearbox. Oil Cooler and Rover Boost Pin, JX turbo and manifold, AAZ inlet manifold, slightly taller tyres but not much. is happy at 70 every day, gets to 80 easy and feels like has plenty more, think I've seen 90 when showing off. (tin top twin slider with...

the s bolts are shear bolts i.e. the head shears off them when they are tightened up so they can't be undone (security feature). They are nicely shaped so you can get a drill in them and drill the heads off, then later you can unscrew the thread by hand. I just replaced with normal bolts when refitt...

motor factors then....
cheers thought it might be more complicated matching sender to gauge.

sorted
starter was ok
loosened the engine to bellhousing bolts, wiggled it all about until starter engaged then nipped them all back up starting with the two at the top holding the starter.