Club 80-90 Forums

There is lots of stuff on this site and elsewhere

The picture at https://vwt25.blog/2016/11/11/rust/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; May be of use.

Mixture of. Seam and spot welding

Andy

Many thanks David.

Just need to drain and remove the petrol tank and the sparks will fly!

Cheers

Andy

Just stripped out the Autosleeper interior ready to replace the outer sill and lower panel. I have the excellent Schofield panel in hand. The reinforcing pressing below the fridge vent panel is badly rusted, though not showing on the outside. See image. I assume this reinforcing pressing is just bon...

Rustoleum is such a mimic for the original paint! Avenue supplied my paint mixed to match the VW paint code. It was certainly on the cream side of the faded exterior , but a great match to the colour in the shuts etc. fast forward , some 5 years (possible more) and time for more extensive work. That...

Turned one from aluminium, could do a few more if needed

Early tail pipe fitted to a late exhaust?

That's right. I've not got it to move when stationary, not matter how quickly you go to full throttle from idle.

I'm with itchyfeet, not enough fuel/air getting to the engine under load.
That second butterfly valve should open under load. Difficult to monitor when driving though ....

Thought I would add my recent experience under this heading, since symptoms were identical. ( 1.9DG) Always felt like fuel starvation to me, started great, and pulled well while choked. Didn't always stutter under load, and would be less with full tank. Occurred during a trip around Devon's twisty l...

Green Meadow, Newbury
30 quid
I take my van and cars there. They get their main business from recovery work

Always fix the advisories as they find them, and the odd failure has always been reasonable and I fix and retest without issues.

Andy

I bought some after failing to remove a stuck calliper. They fitted just fine, and been in use for 6 months without issue.

Assuming you're late style with screw in radius rods, then record the distance of the inner nut from the suspension end before you start. You'll need a 27mm open ended spanner to unscrew that nut, and to then unscrew the rod. I doubt an adjustable will be stable enough given the force you're going t...

You 'should' be able to remove the bolts holding the housing to the water pump, and then the housing slides out. Though you may well shear the bolts and then the pump and housing will have to come out as a lump to be seperated on the bench. Replacing the water pump is easy enough, but the housings a...

The O ring seal on that end allows for thermal expansion and alignment tolerances without leaking. (i.e. it's not an end butted seal ) When you rejoin the pieces they will butt against each other to stop gross movements. It's been watertight for may 1000's of miles now, so I don't think it's a probl...

Removing the water pump may be as troublesome for you as it was for me. Here's a potential tip to avoid snapped stud removal! The 'normal' technique is to remove the attached thermostat, then with this out the way you can slide the waterpump out. My issues started with snapped bolt heads holding the...