Club 80-90 Forums

that was going to be my suggestion!

so in theory you could ship your engine to someone like Mr Holman, have the internals upgraded to a 2.5, with new FI system, ship it back and install and the swiss authorities would just want to see the "SP" stamped on the block?

more out of curiosity than anything else but what do the swiss authorities do when they look at your engine? Do they just want to see the correct engine code stamped on the block?

if you were to put in a "normal" 2.1 how would they know it's not an SP engine?

very common issue on TDi's and IDI TD's in T3 busses..

I don't think your pipe has enough flow/drop

Just checked and I can't see an AAZ oil return line on brickwerks.. Are you using the JX or AAZ manifold/turbo?

Do you have a friendly hydraulics place local?

Paging Baxter, come in Baxter.....



Lets see if the lad responds.. I'm following your CC exploits..

Aircooled T3's (first few years) had a warm air vent/pipe from the rear to the cab for heating, I think that's the hole it passes through

changing the studs doesn't need a press, I've done loads over the years.

Phil D wrote: ↑07 Jan 2021, 16:02 Caravan wheels take much greater loads than csr wheels, thete are only two of them not four and the basic suspension on a caravan means the wheel gets greater dynamic loading than a car. 

Have you got a source for this? Not saying you are wrong but it does seem to be a little counter-intuitive

I wouldn't have thought caravan wheels would be load rated for a commercial vehicle.

isn't the 16v a twin cam crossflow head?

you need to test one thing at once.  start with the battery

Rig up your multimeter to the battery

(assuming you are on your own) position your phone so you can record a video of the multimeter screen

try to crank the bus

Watch the video to see the voltage drop

 

got a spare battery you can try???

or a multimeter??  

Cold weather can easily make the battery drop a cell, will still show 12v+ with no load but drop to 7v+ under starting load

Smcknighty wrote: ↑18 Nov 2020, 15:59 Interesting - what are you using for a fuel tank?

https://ebay.us/GdvCfe

then, IMHO you should go with the AGG/ADY option.

once installed it's easy to service, work on etc..  you already have all the fitting kit as you're starting from a diesel.

Define the brief.

What do you want to achieve?  What's the most important factor (fuel economy/speed/torque/budget)?  

Unless you can clearly state the problem then you can't find the correct solution..