Club 80-90 Forums

Lloydy's box is now 5.43 final drive with 1.09 3rd and 0.70 4th gears from memory, that's pretty much my standard TDi Syncro build, best with a 'V' 2nd gear (1.88, makes it very even spacing), should give a true 70 at 3150rpm +/- 150 rpm, depending on tyre size, most are running 215/75/15 or bigger ...

Should have bought the better quality set that has instructions included
Only saying, to save Ian from saying it
The one that has broken up on yours is the angled top one

wasn't available as a separate part from VW - back then you could maybe have got it from Mann & Hummel who made the whole air intake

see pics on this Ebay listing

Drop the oil, to view the magnet on the drain plug, though unless synchroniser has broken up a lot there often isn't any identifiable debris to identify smoking gun, 3mm ball bearings and inch long piece of spring steel are broken slider bearing though

silverbullet wrote: ↑18 Oct 2026, 08:54 If the 4-speed box has decided to get snaggy when shifting from 3 to 4 doesn't that point to a linear bearing failure on the 3-4 shift rod/fork?

or a broken 3rd4th synchro hub, but lets repair the linkage first to rule out external issues

yep those are they originally the nylon was molded onto the linkage rod, but as you have seen over time, with the application of unsuitable lubricants, rust, road dirt and heavy handed drivers they can wear and or break up like yours have done. The only solution was to buy a new linkage rod for over...

Would love to see the condition of the ally blocks and the plastic guides at the front end. It's a 4 speed, different gearstick and box under, the pics show the guide on the end of the front linkage is back to bare steel so running along the 'gate' it is a couple of mm out of position hence some of...

yes the guides on the bottom of the gear stick fitted to the linkage are important to overall shift the split rear boots and partially missing boots will also contribute to overall "pooh" Our very own Ian Silverbullet makes a top quality repair kit for the guides; unfortunately it was ripp...

its not easy to work out exactly what you need without knowing exactly what vehicle and year the engine came from and how it was installed, now it is in a T3 its not clear what you have where, nor if the install you are trying to make it look like was done purely using the parts from the original ca...

hope these help

having looked at the stalk assembly the high beam and headlight flasher contacts are in the wiper arm assembly on the indicator stalk side - looking at the wiring diagram 56b is the headlight flash pin, the pins are marked on the hosuing and the housing is clipped together, but good luck taking it a...

OK I could view Paul's picture It looks like someone has added some tube to the top of the socket to make it deeper so it acts on the ball of the gearbox selector lever. I suspect you have the rear half of a petrol gear linkage set up maybe obtained as a set from a petrol 5 speed to get the gearstic...

I'm pretty sure that plug will fit in the suffix D sender, but it might need a tickle, and the rubber boot will fit over it even though its not the correct one - they changed over time, probably accounts for why the p.o. changed the wiring previously because they fitted a later sensor - suffix D ver...

check the wire colours, temp gauge wiring is iirc yellow/red and an earth (brown maybe with a trace colour), brickie sells the JPT plug and terminals so you could repair the wiring back to stock

blue one is for the manifold heater/choke
gauge is the black one on the other side of the t'stat housing
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