Club 80-90 Forums

Fixed it for ya , the pic of that foil geato,



Alistair

Harry, I experimented with some bitumen impregnated, self adhesive fabric a few weeks ago. I started (and did not get any further) with a section in the middle of the shaft. I did not notice any difference when driving, but I can't say whether that was due to the relatively lightweight fabric or jus...

the whole subject of propshaft alignment is a contentious one. Leaving aside vertical alignment/flange angles and gross lateral mis-alignment, leaving the front diff mounting bolts slightly loose for a few miles then tightened up to final torque doesn't seem to hurt but I can't say if it is a truly ...

I did it a while back, diff in van. Pics and commentary here: http://shufti.wordpress.com/2012/01/13/ ... placement/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

alistair

No one mentioning the IG16 wiki entry on springs?

http://www.ig-syncro16.de/wiki/Federn" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

alistair

some info and pics here on IG16 site

http://www.ig-syncro16.de/wiki/H%C3%B6h ... g#Bodylift

ie

alistair

The propshaft is approx 8 cm in diameter, so something on the outer surface would be experiencing a force of 715 G when shaft is rotating at 4,000 rpm. If one guesses that the propshaft wall is about 3 mm thick, then something on the inner wall would experience 661 G at 4,000 rpm. So I'd guess that ...

One thing about the PU foam idea is that if the shaft does need balancing (then or later), welding on balance weights or spot heating to straighten might melt PU at that spot and confuse the balancing process.

cheers

alistair

Thanks for the kind words Harry. Of course you can link away, but I'd like to add the provisos of: 1. it is not road tested yet, let alone long term testing 2. much easier to buy a new shaft 3. real machinists will cringe The little chisel is a handy little bugger, I haven't had to use it on nuts/bo...

Hi, I've been fooling around trying to make new bushings for the propshaft. I managed to get both replaced and the fit of the yoke shaft into the housing is nice and snug. But assembly is not road tested yet and I have no idea how durable a fix it is. Longish story of the process here: http://shufti...

Harry,

thanks for the advice. I have the offending housing cleaned and painted as a spare. So I have the chance to play around with it, bearings, and stub axle.

cheers

alistair

Yes, the plates are very worn, worn, and less worn :) But seeing as the rebuild of the VC is an experiment I'm just going to push ahead with them. Finding new plates over here is kinda hard. I took some close ups of some of the unworn plates, punched holes - raised edge visible (the "burrs"...

yup, my old VC. About the failed seal, I'm not sure if it is a case of bad install at factory and it just took a few years for the compromised seal to leak, or it was excessive pressure pushing seal lip out. Either way seems hard to imagine. I have new seals, and waiting on some silicone. I'll try r...

a technique that boatbuilders use... a stick and a bit of template material smaller than you think you need :) jogglestick is I think, what the Brits call the stick. Google it and you will find a few descriptions on how to use. Here is an example; http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/joggle-stick.htm...

Hi,

I posted a German language wiring diagram on my blog a few weeks ago when I was wiring up my aux. lights. Its here;
http://shufti.wordpress.com/2010/01/21/ ... installed/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


hope it helps, cheers

alistair