Club 80-90 Forums

Really helpful and informative, thanks, all. Will look into Rust-Oleum Hard Hat as first choice. In terms of preparing the old surface, is stripping/priming recommended or will it take on top of the existing paint?

I’ve had my black metal front bumper off and thought I may as well repaint it as the upper surface is slightly bleached and there are spots of rust in the lower regions. I thought roughing it up and brush-painting with smooth black Hammerite might give an acceptable finish (or maybe not good enough)...

Hi there, the last time I replaced my pipes it was with the engine out and I had expert help but it looked quite straightforward.  I have replaced my glowplugs in-situ without much drama and luckily that area of the engine is quite accessible.  I would say the most important thing is not to over-tor...

1987 Westfalia Joker pop-top, with grey canopy (Egyptian cotton?).  Mine is split at the rear where it folds when stowed.  Split is probably a foot long and growing, and I am looking to repair it by sticking on fabric inside and out.  Have trawled internet for repair kits without much success. I'm g...

Update: finally did the job and the above was good advice.  The old one was white and had always appeared to work (despite seeping oil) so initially I replaced it with white.  I got intermittent "Buzzer of Doom" on the overrun during the first journey.  I then replaced it with black and al...

Great, many thanks. I had a bottom end rebuild and a new head a few years ago and have not done big mileage since, so the lump should be in pretty good nick. I’ll try 1.4 in that case, I think

There is always oil inside the boot of my oil pressure switch atop the filter mounting and so I suspect it might be leaking.  Should be simple job to replace but I see that Brickie is selling four switches of different colours, the only difference between them I can see being operating pressure (0.2...

Thanks for this, job done.  Once filter removed it was quite easy to find the thin nut and remove the oil cooler before relocating it the right way.  I was expecting it to be a faff but was pleasantly surprised.  I actually did it before seeing your post but the O-ring looked OK; I'll order a new on...

1.9TD (AAZ).  As one of the early AAZ 'pioneers', I have just realised (after 17 years) that my oil cooler (sandwich device between block and oil filter) is mounted incorrectly: my coolant hoses exit towards the rear of the bus while other examples I have found on the internet show them pointing upw...

That's handy to know, thanks.  I'll see if mine's got a resistor in line as that could explain the loss of Stage 1 (it was built an N/A diesel with a two-speed fan, now TD but fan not changed).  IIRC on mine, the red goes straight from the switch to the motor with only a spade-connector block in the...

Yes, your fan behaviour seems consistent with Stage 1 being absent (as was the case with mine).  The motor windings seem to be a weak point considering how little work it actually does.  I did buy a new motor from BW but it was the wrong model and had to go back.  The right one seemed as rare as roc...

I'm not clear about the difference between jubilee clips and 'proper' clips, nor why using the former should create problems.  There are clips of some description on the old pipe and that has not shown any problems in the 18 years I have had the bus, so I may as well just refit those, job done.

Thanks for this.  I'll get some 7mm in then.  Take the point about low pressure but may as well whack on a pair of JCs while I'm at it, as they cost pence and guard against any leakage of fluid, particularly at the bottom of the expansion tank.

For your model year the fan is probably two-stage: that is to say that it operates at two power levels (and hence airflow volume) depending on engine temperature.  Stage 1 (low-power mode) is designed for sustained cooling and is supplied directly via the coolant sensor in the rad, while Stage 2 (hi...