Club 80-90 Forums

Before throwing money and time at it, park up on level flat ground and take a good hard look at the camber and toe settings. It can be done with a spirit level, four bricks, two lengths of straight batten and a tape rule.
What does it tell you?

SA microbuses had a lower load rating than that from new, 2500kg GVW means 625kg+ per tyre, 700 to be safe and then only if you are driving a fully laden camper.
102C tyres are no fun.

Check wheel bearings (jack it up and pull it all around) and the state of the brakes (has it got a long brake pedal or an overheated blue disc?) The rubbing noise is significant. To scrub a tyre inner shoulder down to the reinforcement takes some doing, that means that its toeing out really badly or...

Most roll-out awnings seem to use waterproofed, UV stabilized ripstop polyester around the 420D weight

Received the invoice for repairing the two Digijet idle controllers that I sent to Avilec. In the event, both needed repairs to the idle air valve driver components. They noted that suffix A and C have not only different board architecture but also function rather differently to get a similar effect...

205/65/15 work well on a 15 x 6.5J, that was the later VWSA stock size. Ran those for a few years, just make sure that the load rating is above 85, no need for full commercial 100 load tyres, they can be too hard in my experience.

iirc the site for checking wheel/tyre swaps is willtheyfit.com

Axeman aka Neil is near Ashford, Kent and keeps a hand in. No idea of his workload, T3 work isn't his day job but worth an ask.

If the studs have gone that furry then its been run with pi$$ and vinegar in the cooling system for decades. So they will be well pickled and ready to snap off when you try to change them. You're going to struggle to recover much from that motor thats worth reusing... Good luck! PS alloy wheel clean...

Just keep the heat moving and off the crankcase, needs to be spit boiling hot, then maybe a squirt of oil to the barrel spigots. Its smelly work!

My guess would be barrels corroded into their recesses. Had one or two that were hard work. Big propane torch, get the heads good and hot, it won't hurt them but you need to make them expand enough before clopping the crankcase to get them moving.

Post the "hotlink for forums"

I have a Dometic CFX345 which ran quite happily in high temperatures off a standalone AGM for a weekend, however the fridge was under a tarp shade out of the van. I would say that you keep direct sunlight off the fridge itself, airflow and shade are your friends. Get a dedicated charger for the AGM ...

AGM batteries should also be charged to a higher voltage than lead-acid ones, 14.4 volts iirc, might be higher.
If you don't do this the battery life will be significantly shortened, you need a dedicated "smart" charger.

With the high pressure switch unplugged it should buzz over 2k.
The low pressure switch is for the warning light and merely confirms that you have some oil coming out of the pump and going to the bearings.

All boxers throw a lot of oil into the LH 3&4 rocker cover, the crank rotation creates a standing wave in the sump and pushes oil up the pushrod tubes. Its known as windage. Might have been overfilled, which would restrict the drain back into the sump. Could also possibly be exacerbated by high ...