Club 80-90 Forums

Yes the rubber collar is to damp down the "clack" of the detent ball. Ridiculous really but that was VW at the time.

No clue as to the M8 nuts.

Its not just the ET, also the combination of diameter, width that affecrs clearance and then the thickness of the wheel centre (or knave, if you will) and if thatvworks with the oem stud length. Some fit, some don't. Original alloys required a slightly longer stud of around 45mm iirc so most use 50m...

VW used a type of hardenable iron for cams, once the hard layer has worn through they wear rapidly. Sounds like they were regrinding old cams and assuming that they were hard right through or at least very deep hardened like old Jaguar XK cams which were chill cast iron and never wear.

I have one new/repro standard 2.1 cam left. It is on a 3-bolt type 1 blank as they all are so timing it is a challenge for the home builder. Last enquiry I made to Newmans as they they are struggling to get cam blanks for flat 4's and there is only 1 manufacturer/trade supplier and they are out East...

EV14 on the Oettinger 3.2, its 1.5x DJ with a warm cam so they seemed a fair match, I was intrigued by the modern (piezo?) four hole fogger type bozzle which is supposed to give better fuel atomisation and a better burn compared to T3 OEM pintle solenoid injectors; trying for higher efficiency rathe...

Davidoft1 and Silverbullet thanks for the advice. I’ll give it a try this week and see how I get on. I also wondered about the feasibility of inserting a solid bar to add strength but didn’t think I’d be able to knock it past the bend in the gear stick. The lever has a 9mm+ inner diameter so a piec...

They are made from relatively soft tube. Remove, dismantle, heat it and straighten in a vise.
Then reinforce with a length of 8mm (5.16") rod which can easily be knocked right through the gearlever, round the bend. Weld one or both ends to secure.

The pulley has to come off in order to then remove the coolant bridge pipe which is in front of the oil pump cover.
No way round it. Are you sure that the leak isn't from the crank seal?

Decided to change the relay board anyway and good job that I did, found corrosion on some of the terminals for connector B, which includes the horn feed amongst others.
Then I had no power at all. I had left the spare/test ignition switch in the on position for days...

Just in case it hasn't already been highlighted, when you replace a driveplate (or flywheel) on a wbx you *must* check the engine crankshaft endfloat and adjust as required with shims which may or may not be damaged and equally may or may not be available. I would always advise renewing the rear thr...

I bought a 100W folding monocrystalline panel from Low Energy Supermarket, it has an integral smart controller and for about £90 delivered figured that I can't go wrong. Evri courier "next day" was a joke, took almost a week! The carboard box was damaged but panel ok as it's inside a padde...

When we took our daily driver bus down to Austria for 20 days and 5-up, I gave it a full brake service and new wheel bearings because a failure was unthinkable. The only thing that went wrong was water ingress into the central locking during a massive storm, otherwise aok. If its safety critical, do...

The horn is neg switched and ignition constant live to the horn , so put a temp independent +12v to the horn and see if its the switching Switch not the issue. As I said, with the steering wheel removed, I shorted the horn contact finger direct to earth using a jumper cable back to the battery eart...

slowcoach wrote: ↑22 Jun 2025, 16:23 Works with engine running? My twin horn thing likes a lot of volts to sound. Mine is also relayed.

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No different.

Come again? ;) Final bits of the rebuild, added twin horns, thought that I should test them before adding the OEM relay arrangement. Horns don't work, barely a click/fart/whimper. Took horns off and tested direct off the van battery. They work. Took steering wheel off and shorted the horn ring conta...