Club 80-90 Forums

clift_d wrote: ↑21 Oct 2026, 18:03 Ian, your kit is showing as ‘Out of stock’ at BW. Is there any possibility that a new batch might be forthcoming?

I'd better ping BW in the morning and get them restocked then! I've got plenty of them in the drawer ready to bag up and ship.

Brickwerks are good but they sell the JP copy kit as well as the one that I developed.
TBH a linkage refurb is never a bad thing but it wont fix a fractured 3/4 synchro hub

Large tip on Left, angled one on right to match the steel reverse/G lockout stop.

They are molded on nylon, best to remove the entire rod and squeeze them in a vise to fracture them and/or cut them off.
Degrease and clean very thoroughly, fix the new tips with epoxy (Araldite) and leave to cure for 24hrs.

If the 4-speed box has decided to get snaggy when shifting from 3 to 4 doesn't that point to a linear bearing failure on the 3-4 shift rod/fork?

I have them in my garage too. Brilliant lights but they play hell with FM radios!! I had to get a portable DAB radio to avoid the interference!! Thats odd, we have fm in the works and that radio is fine with 16-20 double LED battens on, but the dab I have in the side room is disrupted by the batter...

My mistake, Ansell say LED life is 50-54,000 hours.
Even if they only last half that, are you going to spend that may hours in your garage?
12 years based on a 40 hour week?

I mentioned this in passing in my syncro build thread, but its worth mentioning again. Garage/workshop/shed lighting is so often not considered an essential, but for the money these days you'd me mad to not make the swap. I changed a pair of 5ft single tubes for a pair of 6ft (1800mm) Ansell Tornado...

My take on the filter bypass pressure is that it only applies when there is a situation in which bypass is necessary i.e. when the oil is really thick and viscous in sub-zero conditions OR the filter is so choked with carbonized oil that it cannot pass any treacle. Modern oils are a lot better than ...

My mistake on the OC203, pulling numbers from memory! The thread is 3/4" x 16 UNF and the oil tube is secured with threadlock, probably worth buying a half decent HSS tap to clean the case threads out and ensure than the tube is wound all the way in. The 1.9 have around 15mm of thread protrudin...

More info needed. RHD or LHD? Imported vehicle? Could be a hot climate special part but I have no access to ETKA/ETOS to do a deep dive.

Bit late to the party...I wouldn't have worried about a point contact between the header and the coolant pipe, I have the same thing on my wbx6, barely a mm gap. Unless the two rattle due to expansion I'd have left it. Some (all?) of the stainless coolant pipes require adjustment to fit nicely, some...

Reinforced pvc pipe pushed into a rubber hose does not suggest OEM level installation...

great information thank you, but anyone know what the part number the air intake pie that goes to the throttle body. will have a branch that connects to the crankcase breather pipe I think All original VW parts of the era have the number on them, hoses are usually embossed and still readable after ...

I have a base spec stalk set going spare (no rear wash wipe)