Club 80-90 Forums

Same case, crank, rods, pistons/barrels. But....different camshaft with conservative valve timing - more specifically, the DF has significantly less duration on both the inlet and exhaust. So if you put DG heads on you'll have the bigger valves, but that will give little or no benefit due to the sho...

R0B wrote:Whats metal gear solid?[emoji848][emoji854]

This could run to many levels [emoji1787]

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I'd recommend new rad, new fan switch, no chicken switch (not needed if it's all working right), and new thermostat. Check flow through main F-R coolant pipes, as the plastic ones have metal inserts which can corrode badly and reduce the diameter.

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I got stuck at COA.
Google wasn't that helpful...

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Should just slide out on the runners, turn round and slide back in. Fit retaining bolt to secure. Easy job on ours.

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There's a small core plug between an oil gallery and water jacket. It can corrode and become powdery/porous and start weeping a little oil into the coolant. Apart from a little oil in the expansion tank, there will often be no other symptoms (until it lets go completely, sudden loss of oil pressure ...

Take all the old cooling stuff off the replacement engine and fit the late stuff from your original engine. Keep it as it should be, no need to mix the two systems. Earth the wire that should have gone to your high pressure oil switch below the water pump (not fitted on early engine). Sent from my m...

I think he meant has it been on a long run recently. Standing for a while can result in sub-optimal hydraulic lifter behaviour, possibly affecting compression. It needs a run of at least 45 mins of varying speeds to be sure the lifters have sorted themselves out. Then repeat compression test. Sent f...

No pics, but from the description I'm guessing it's possibly the short hose on an early DG between the thermostat housing and LHS cylinder head?
If so, remove the whole water pump/thermostat housing assembly by taking off the three WP fixing nuts. Simples.

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Sticking AFM flap?
Sticking idle switch?
Bad earth connection on LHS head (changes with temperature).
I'd say check those first and report back.

E D I T: Oh, and which 2.1? DJ, MV and SS will all warrant slightly different approaches to diagnostics.

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If you still have the old plastic spigot it might be brittle, be careful it doesn't break. It may be best to replace it with the stainless steel upgrade.

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DoubleOSeven wrote:That header lip is outrageous!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTPT6cP97m0

AMC heads - no thanks.

 

They've sorted it on the new stock. The last 6 from Brickwerks have been fine.

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https://www.facebook.com/share/p/15UYVW38VG/

Or ifyou can't open it, a direct link to the first video
https://youtu.be/_7tjOX0UZwg?si=YxsG_jN2G9Cupd_4

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Did I see the Batlight in the sky?

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The reason I say the Weber is poor (in my opinion) is because I have removed several from customers' vans due to persistent running problems. These were cured by restoring them to the original Pierburg 2e3 setup. I accept that not everyone will have such disappointing experiences with the Weber, but...